The Town of Imagination for Rabbits 

 

Rabbit Bonding Guide

Rabbits need to pick their Forever Friend. You cannot force a rabbit to bond to another rabbit.

This Rabbit Bonding Guide is based on 12 years of rabbit bonding experience at a local Rabbit Rescue Group’s Adoption Show. The purpose of this guide is to go over several rabbit bonding techniques which can be used with the rabbits that you are trying to bond.  A gentle and loving “hands on approach” is used throughout the entirety of the bonding process. At a future date, we’ll go over the initial bonding process with several potential rabbits.

To begin things, each rabbit who is a potential bonding candidate needs to be healthy, fixed and live indoors 100% of the time. Female rabbits should be spayed for 2 to 3 weeks and have recovered entirely from their spay operation before bonding.  Unlike male rabbits, they are not hormonal after their operation but may need up to a few weeks to fully recover from the major surgery. Male rabbits need to be fixed for 8 to 10 weeks before bonding as their hormonal levels need to be reduced.

Background

1 Rabbits need to pick their own Forever Friend.  You adopted your bunny it is now time for your bunny to find their forever friend.

2. There are some rabbits like our Binky who wanted to be alone.  There are some like our Sugarplum and Zora who are happier with their Forever Friend.

3. Rabbit Bonding can take from days to a few months.  You don't have to work on it each day.  Side by Side housing with switching their litter boxes every few days does wonders.

4. It helps that your rabbit will see a few different rabbits to find a potential friend. The times can be done over several weeks. You should be able to see the type of rabbits that you bunny may have a common interest in each other.

5. You are doing this for the Love of your bunny. There is no magic wand.  Rabbits are like people.  You may get along with some right off. There are others that a deep friendship would develop over time.  You need to follow the lead of your bunnies.

Baby Hops

We will go over “Baby Hops” prior to your rabbit’s First Bunny Date. Rabbit Bonding can take a few days to several months. Each bunny should be fixed (spayed and or natured).  The standard bonding process is side by side housing followed by bonding in a neutral space.

Similar Calm Personality It is helpful to know the personality of your rabbit. We rescued Zora in the mountains when she was dumped at an RV Park. Everyone talked about how calm she was sitting in the sun looking at everyone. We later adopted her and found her to be same. She would enjoy the good life under her Willow Tent or her bed.  We bonded her with our “Easter Bunny Rescue” Zita (female) who was similar in nature. They both enjoy the good life under their Willow Tent. We felt that Zora wanted a calm Forever Friend like her to enjoy life side by side.

Single Life If you know the background of your rabbit it might help in the bonding process.  We were the foster and later adopted Binky. Binky was rescued from the shelter due severe emaciation at the age of few months.  He had a stroke the first night under our care. We went through 6 months of physical therapy where he later recovered. Binky never ever forgot his experience of lack of food. He was extremely food pressive along with his toys. We did try to bond him but he did not want to share his food or anything. He had the Good Life as a Single Bunny never having to worry about food or anything.

Lost a Forever Friend We bonded our Sugarplum with Lucky.  Lucky was very caring and Loving with Sugarplum. Lucky later passed away due to cancer. It was a difficult time for all. Sugarplum was with Lucky during this time giving back the Love that Lucky shared with Sugarplum. We knew that Sugarplum was depressed with the passing of Lucky. We later started to bond Sugarplum with Binx within days of Lucky’s passing. The bonding process took about 6 weeks. They are now living a Happy Life as a bonded pair.

Each Bunny and family situation are unique. We will talk about a few types of cases.

Cautious Bunny

• There are some rabbits who no fault of you own had a difficult life. You may have adopted a skittish rabbit who later gained your trust and became a Loving Member of your family.
• My rabbit has a solid routine. My rabbits want to have ever thing in the same place.
• My rabbit is our watch dog. My rabbit will Thump at any loud sound like the phone or doorbell.

Typical Bunny

• We adopted our rabbit at a young age who was fixed by the rescue group. Our bunny has only known the Good Life and we are thinking of finding a Forever Friend.
• Our bunny is about 5 years. Our bunny is a normal bunny not shy or active just in the middle.
• We work during the day and feel that our bunny will need a Forever Friend. Our bunny is active in the morning and a dinner time. Our bunny tends to sleep during the day. We do watch her on our web cam.

Free Roaming Bunny

• We have an active bunny who Loves to hop around and play. Our bunny is free roaming in our home. We don’t have any neutral space.

X-pen at night playtime during the day.

• Our bunny sleeps at night in their X-pen with playtime outside of X-pen during the day.

Territorial Rabbit

• Rabbits are territorial. Your rabbit may be very territorial if your rabbit makes or will “chin” as any toy.
• Our rabbit is very bonded to me. I spend a lot of time with my bunny. We are bonded.

Special Needs or older rabbits.

• We have a spayed leg rabbit. Our rabbit behaves as all rabbits. We do have special bedding for her due to spay leg.
• I have an older rabbit 8 plus years. She is not a baby bunny any more. She lost her friend years ago. We do feel that she wants to spend time with another rabbit in her golden years.

Rabbit Bonding can be stressful for both the rabbit and the parents. It is important to know that bonding can take a few days to several weeks based on several factors. We will go over several things that you can do to prepare your bunny and yourself prior to your bunny’s first bunny date. Disclaimer. The list is just things that you can do based on the type of bunny that you have. It is not required to do any of these items.

• Rabbit Rescue Groups may have a “Binky Hop” where healthy fixed rabbits can attend. The event is controlled with Monitors and you will sit on the side. You can see how your rabbit reacts with other bunnies.
• You can help out with local Rabbit Rescue Groups. You can hold and pet their rabbits. It is understood that the rabbits that you interact with are healthy. You can then have limited time with your rabbit. Your rabbit may be upset. You have been with another rabbit or your rabbit will be fine.  Your rabbit may adjust to the new smells.
• You can foster other rabbits for a Rabbit Rescue Group. You cannot do bonding but you can see how your rabbit will react. Note that unfixed Males or Females may effect your bonded pair of rabbits or fixed rabbit.  Rabbits can smell "unfixed Males or Females of age to reproduce".
• Free Roaming Rabbits are the most difficult bond to do. You can have your rabbit in a X-Pen at night next to another X-Pen. You can place a real looking stuff rabbit in the other X-Pen. The idea is for your bunny to get use to a Side By Side X-Pen for bonding.
• Place new toys or make minor changes to your bunnies living area to have the bunny get use to changes.
• You can place a “Real Looking Stuff Rabbit” in your bunny area. Rabbits do know the difference. If you have access to fur from another bunny you can place that on the Stuff Rabbit.
• You can bring your rabbit to your parent’s home or a friend’s home and setup up in an X-Pen setting. Your rabbit will get use to a new area. When you take your rabbit on their “Bonding Date” they do not know what is going on. They may feel that you are going to leave them.

Bonding techniques. (You can see these bonding techniques on the Sugarplum and Binx's bonding page)

Placing the rabbits together

Place the rabbits together facing the same direction.  At first, you may see them lean away from one another, so gently pet them with the palm of your hand over their noses and over their heads. You can also hold their ears together and stroke them.  You should gently move your hand just over both of them about once every few seconds.  You should see two calm rabbits with their heads leaning into one another.

 Controlled Interaction

 

Place the rabbits into a laundry basket lined with a cat bed or a piece of soft fleece fabric. The purpose of the laundry basket is to provide a limited yet controlled area for bonding. 

Relax on a couch with the rabbits in the basket and pet one or both of them at the same time. At this point, you are looking for neutral interaction between the two rabbits.  Move the laundry basket back every now and then to add a little “stress” into their environment.

The other approach is to go on a car ride with both of them in a carrier together. However, this may take a lot of energy and time. The laundry basket technique is more simple and effective.

Neutral Area Bonding

The Neutral Area is the bonding space where the rabbits have not been or have limited access and is the core for Rabbit Bonding. 

* 4 feet by 6 feet or similar is preferred. It can be a hallway, kitchen or similar.

*The area should be free of objects where one rabbit can feel trapped.

* Place two large litter boxes with hay side by side to allow side-by-side eating or eating together.

* Place a carrier or other objects in the middle of the Neutral Area. It will split the space into different areas creating an indirect line of sight or path between the other one.

* The Neutral Area can have fabric or an area with no traction. However, an area with no traction may delay the rabbit(s) if they are having concerns with their friend. Having fabric or similar can be added later if they are getting better.

It is important for you to be calm and relaxed when you commence the “Neutral Area Meeting.” Rabbits are very smart and can feel stress or when you are stressed as they will feel the stress.  When you place them in a neutral area, you are taking them out of their “safe environment” as they are naturally territorial.

See how they interact with one another. Does one seek out the other for friendship or for competition?

It may be useful if you can sit in the bonding area with the rabbits as this will allow you to better handle any concerns that may arise or directly help with the bonding process. You should sit on one side of the bonding area where it will allow you to see the rabbits right in front of you and allow you to sit between the rabbits if they become stressed.

The following explains what you might observe and what you can do.

Good Signs

Neutral: The two rabbits will ignore each other. They may smell each other or get close to each other with interactions. They will each find an area and lay down. This is a very Good Sign as they don’t feel that either is a threat and they feel comfortable with one other.

Mirror: Rabbits will mirror each other when they feel comfortable with each other. An example of this is when one would lay down, the other would do the same.

Eating Together: This is also a Very Good sign when the rabbits are eating together in the same litter box or next to one another.

“Super Bunny”:   When you see one bunny assuming the “Super Bunny” pose it means that they’re relaxed. It is a Very Good sign. You then want to see how the bunny reacts as the other bunny hops near the relaxed bunny. If the Super Bunny hops up but the other bunny does not react to it, this is also a Very Good sign.

Face Cleaning: You may see one rabbit cleaning their face which is a Very Good sign as this means that the bunny feels comfortable doing this around the other. You will then look for the reaction from the other bunny as they hop near the one who is grooming oneself.

Grooming:  Grooming one another is the Gold Standard for Bonding. Grooming is a very gentle way in which a rabbit shows Love and Affection towards another rabbit by licking the head of the other rabbit. When a rabbit wants to be groomed, they will place their head down next to the other rabbit.

The rabbit that is being groomed (the one with their head down) is considered the Dominant rabbit.  When your rabbit puts their heads down next to you, that means it’s “Head Pet Time.” When you see grooming, this is a very good start to a pretty good match. 

If the bunny puts their head down towards the other one, this  means “Groom Me.” The bunny who is being groomed is the “Alpha or Dominant” bunny. When the bunny does this and there is grooming, then you have hit the jackpot!  Each bunny then may want to be groomed and it’s important for you to be quiet and let the bunnies enjoy the moment.

Other Grooming Scenarios:

• When one bunny is grooming, the other bunny may hop over and place their head next to the other bunny.
• You may have a “Strong Alpha” if one bunny pushes their head down into the other bunny. The bunny may move the other bunny with their head.  It will be important for the other bunny to groom if you observe this behavior. 
• The “Grooming Face Off” is when each bunny is face-to-face with their heads down with the hope that the other one would groom them first.
• A “Bunny Kiss” is when you see a second or two of grooming.

Concern Signs

Backside Smelling:  When one rabbit is smelling the backside of the other it is a concern and it tends to lead to fights. You might want to move them apart.

Thump: When a rabbit is afraid, they thump. Calm the bunny down with a gentle head pet.

Chinning: Rabbit would “chin” objects to claim it as mine.  One or both may chin things as their own. If the other rabbit gets near the object the one who chinned might get upset. The two rabbits would then need to adjust to each other.

“This is my spot”: One rabbit may pick an area or a corner and say “It is Mine” and then be very protective of it. If the other rabbit comes near the area or corner, this may lead to a fight. You can consider the following to dissipate the situation:  

• You can move the other bunny near the area and pet them; 
• You can move the bunny away and put the litter box there instead; or 
• You can move the bunny to a different corner.

Fast Movement: Rabbits are prey animals so they are looking for quick fast movements. Look at their reaction when they make a quick movement near each other or hop past one another.  One rabbit might feel safe if the other one is away, or feel unsafe as they move closer. One rabbit might attack the other rabbit as they move closer.  Each rabbit is learning about the other one and what you are looking for is how they communicate with one another.

Mounting: Mounting is not based on the sex or gender of the bunny.  Mounting is a rabbit’s way of showing who is the Dominant rabbit and the bunny who is doing the mounting is the Dominant bunny. 

Rabbits use this process to communicate with each other.

What you are looking for is how the other bunny reacts. The bottom bunny may run away or communicate to the other bunny to stop. They should work out who is the top bunny. It will never be 50/50. They will adjust through their communication. You don’t want to see one hop away and the other one following or pulling the fur of the other one.

There are several things that you can do if it becomes a concern:

• Place the bottom bunny across the back of the top bunny and pet both of them. This will show the bottom bunny is the Dominant bunny.
• Gently separate them. Place the palm of your hand on their head and gently move them apart.  If you place the palm of your hand on their head you control the bunny. If you place your hand on their side they can turn their head onto your hand.
• When you see head mounting move the top bunny away before any injuries can occur. The bottom bunny may bite the private parts.
• Place a carrier or similar in the center of the bonding area. It will allow them to have some space between each other.

Time to Stop - No Treats for bad behavior!

Rabbit Chasing or Biting:  Rabbits who don’t like each other will either bite or chase after each other in a circle. When this happens, the bonding is over. You must separate the rabbits before they harm one another.

• Quickly pick up the easiest rabbit.
• Place the palm of your hand on the head of one and then pick up that bunny.

End on a positive note

The initial bonding in the neutral area shouldn’t last more than 30 to 60 minutes.  If you extend the session too long it might lead to a fight due to the stress of “dating.” You should end the “date” after 30 minutes and give each bunny a special treat.  You can then start to extend the time to 60 minutes and longer with the next “date.” 

You want to let them know that this is a positive experience.

Body Language

You can understand through their body language how the bunny feels or might do next. When the bunny is laying down in the “Super Bunny” pose or grooming themselves, this shows a relaxed and comfortable bunny.

A bunny who is flirting will hop pass the other one and move their tail up and down.

If the bunny puts their head down towards the other one it means “Groom Me.” Again, the bunny who is being groomed is the “Alpha” or “Dominant” bunny. When the bunny does this, then you hit the jackpot. At this point, each bunny may want to be groomed and it’s important for you to be quiet and let the bunnies enjoy the moment.

When rabbits are relaxed they will hop and do a “Bunny Flop.”  When you see one bunny do a “Bunny Flop” it is a good sign that they are relaxed with the other bunny.  It will be important to see what happens when the other bunny hops by or near the “bunny flopped” bunny. The bunny may sit up or stay flopped which is a great sign that the bonding is going well.

One sign of concern  to watch out for is when the bunny’s ears are back at 45 degrees with their tail up. Another sign of concern is if the bunny is in a position similar to a track runner at the starting gate at the start of a track meet. Each of these cases the bunny might make an aggressive move towards the other bunny.

When you see either, you can do the following in the bonding area with the bunnies:

• Pet the bunny who does not seem happy. It will help to calm the situation down.
• Talk to the bunny In a Loud and Firm: “I Am Watching You” or “Be Nice.”
• Place yourself or something between the two rabbits.

Gentle Touch:   You can help put your rabbits at ease with a gentle touch.  When your rabbits are near each other, go ahead and pet them together with a gentle touch from their nose over their heads. They might feel more at ease with you close by as they get to know each other. You can move them side by side and pet them together. You can put a little fur from each over the other’s nose. Remember that rabbits are driven by smell.

Stern Voice:   A rabbit knows their name. If you see a possible problem with one you can point your finger at the bunny and say in a loud and stern voice: “Name be nice. I am watching you.”

Litter Box:  When you want to use the bathroom, you want to feel safe and secure.  Rabbits feel safe and are protective of their litter box.   Use a litter box that is large enough for both of them together or use two large litter boxes placed side by side.

You would like to see both rabbits hop in and out of the litter box. However, one rabbit might stay in the litter box during the bonding. When this happens, this may mean that the rabbit doesn’t feel safe with the other rabbit or safe with the bonding process.

The purpose of having two side-by-side litter boxes is to prevent one rabbit from controlling the litter box, and this will allow both rabbits to use the litter box side-by-side to prevent fights from happening over the litter box. Place their hay in the litter box and/or you  can also use a hay rack above the two litter boxes.  You are looking for them to eat and use the litter box without feeling threatened by the other one. 

One rabbit might be eating. Then the other rabbit may hop into the next litter box to eat. You don’t want them to feel that the other rabbit will eat their food or take away their litter box.

If one is eating and feeling relaxed in one litter box you can do the following.

• Place the other rabbit in the side by side litter box and pet both of them. It will allow them to feel safe next to each other.
• Place the other rabbit in the common litter box and pet both of them.
• Place both rabbits into either one litter or the side by side litter boxes.
• Place the X-Pens near each other but not touching.
• Place a small piece of wood or similar between the x-pen to prevent nose biting.
• Place their litter boxes side by side.
• Spread their greens and pellets along a common x-pen side. They can eat next to each other.
• Switch the bunnies every few days so they can get used to the smell.
• Switch their litter boxes every few days but don't clean them because you do want them to get used to the smell.

 

Side by Side Home Setup

* Place the X-Pens near each other but not touching.

* Place small piece of wood or similar between the x-pen to prevent nose biting.

* Place their litter boxes side by side.

* You can place spread their greens and pellets along common x-pen side. They can eat next to each other.

*  You can switch the bunnies every few days so they can get use to the smell.

* You can switch their litter boxes every few days but don't clean it. You want them to get use to the smell.

Bonding a Free Roaming Rabbit

House the Forever Friend in an X-pen against the wall in your bunny area. You will need to add a protective barrier on the x-pen to prevent “nose bites.”  Switch out the two rabbits for a few hours during the day. The free roaming bunny should be out most of the time.

You should start to see that the two would lay next to each other.  The two litter boxes should be placed near each other. You should continue to switch out the litter boxes and toys every few days between them. You should also place their pellets and greens along the common area.

 

The above video is from Sugarplum and Binx’s Rabbit Bonding where you can see their bonding from start to finish over a 6 week period. The page shows both the good and the bad during the bonding, and how the bonding process was adjusted for each rabbit. It also shows the text that goes over the videos. The production of the videos are Real Life with no music or graphics.

The bonding in the bunny room was going great. We have now moved bonding in their forever area. The purpose of the video is to show how you can react to potential concerns. We are in the bonding area since it was the first time in a new expanded location.

1. We were petting them when Sugarplum sat next to Binx. Binx was not happy at the end and showed it. We gently moved him away. 

2. We can tell that Binx may go after Sugarplum by his body language. We said and pointed to him "Be Nice ...We are watching you." He then backed off. In each case, we were calm and reacted in a calm manner. Again, if you are stressed, the rabbit(s) will feel it. They can see from your reaction that you are the “Top bunny.”

 

The “Rabbit Bonding Guide” Facebook Pages shows the bonding for Sugarplum and Binx over a 6 week period. It shows both the good things along with setbacks.  The page also shows bonding videos and pictures of the bonding process. You can see the page using the link FB Link